"How To Wear" Guide - Straight Watch Chains

The spring ring is the most straightforward means of attaching the pocket watch chain to the wearer's garment. It is a more modern form of connection than the t-bar and has a diverse set of methods for use. Larger rings can be attached to a buttonhole (on a vest or shirt), can be clipped around the belt loop on jeans or pants or can be used to attach the chain to itself after being looped around the wearer's belt.

Some of the larger spring rings feature a "chain guard," which is a protrusion that prevents rotation of the ring in the buttonhole, or functions to keep different attachments separate on the ring. Smaller rings, typically found on lighter weight chains, can be attached around the thread behind a button. This method of attachment emulates a t-bar style of display with the additional security found with the spring ring clasp.

Straight Chain with Spring Ring (Vest)

Straight Chain with Spring Ring (Pants)

The t-bar, made to be passed through a buttonhole, is the earliest form of connection between the pocket watch chain and the wearer's vest or shirt; it predated the spring ring and various clips used afterwards.

Fancy or ornate t-bars tend to be worn from the inside-out (to make visible and display the t-bars, as shown below); standard t-bars are usually worn outside-in (so they aren't visible).

Straight Chain with T-Bar (Vest)

Straight Chain with T-Bar (Shirt)

The lobster-claw style clip is a very modern form of pocket watch chain connection, as it was introduced well after the t-bar, spring ring, and other belt clips. This style of clip is most often used to attach the chain to a belt loop, as pictured in the first photo.

Belt clips are also used to attach pocket watch chains. The second and third photos here show a "pressure-fit" clip that was introduced in the middle of the 20th century.

Straight Chain with Lobster-Claw Style Clip

Straight Chain with Belt Clip

Detail of Belt Clip

Regardless of the method used to attach the chain to the wearer's vest, shirt, or pants, the bow of the pocket watch is attached to the chain with a small swivel clasp that allows the watch to rotate and keeps the chain from twisting. These swivels are findings that are traditionally used with pocket watches on most vintage pocket watch chains. As opposed to many of the more modern styles, these do not have any small latches to pull back but rather part of the oval "clip" section depresses into the finding, allowing you to slip in your pocket watch bow or fob lanyard. Once released, it has a small internal spring that closes the oval loop back up and prevents whatever is clipped from accidentally coming out without your intervention.

A pocket watch can be worn on either side of the body depending on the preference of the wearer. For instance, many right-handed wearers may have their pocket watch on the left side of the body; this allows for winding with the right hand while holding the watch with the left. However, a right-handed wearer may instead choose to keep the watch on the right for ease-of-use when pulling and returning the watch to a pocket as well.

As a rule of thumb, on an average-build male, we suggest straight chains 10" or shorter for heights under 5'8", 10" to 14" for heights 5'8" to 6'2" and 14" or longer for heights over 6'2".